A tour through the best of the Alps

Lech am Arlberg, Austria

A picture-perfect mountain town set in a no-less magical looking valley, Lech shares the scenery with neighbouring villages of regal fame St. Anton am Arlberg and Zürs. Habitually graced with an abundance of snow that would make most of other resorts-towns green with envy, this trio does not only shares one of the vastest ski area in the world, but also manages to still celebrate its unparalleled relationship with ski history in great style. The town of Lech is notably associated with an über-high quality of après-ski, art, and luxury accommodation (think the most expensive chalet for rent in the Alps). For culture seekers, the reward is harder to reach but worth it; and can be found after a hike in the form of a concrete, igloo-like structure imagined by American artist James Turrell as one of his skyspaces. When it comes to après-ski, suffices to look at Slim Aaron’s pictures of the village’s incomparable Eisbar, having forever set in ice the high-spirited ski culture in Arlberg.

Sölden, Austria

Sölden and the Ötztal Valley have always been a non-missable point on the map of high-level skiers and snowboarders. It now gets the reputation it deserves as a major ski destination open to all as word goes around it has some of the best slopes and après-ski around. Its appearance at length in James Bond’s 2015 Spectre, where the mile-high IceQ restaurant appears as a sleek luxury clinic, might have helped. Lately, a batch of new hotels have opened up in the valley but the tradition of hospitality found unchanged in local pensions is still the best accommodation choice to come back to every season. Do try some serious sledge in Huben alongside well deserved spa time at Längenfeld’s impressive Aquadome, its architecture and superb services also worthy of any James Bond.

Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy

Undefeated as the last remaining “queen” of ski towns in their purest traditions, Cortina appears as the best compromise for the crowd wanting to enjoy the Dolomites in plush luxury, its very air being indeed made out of champagne, caviar and legends. Italian’s society still comes to play seasonally in furs de circonstance and latest ski gear (including cars, although the town is dotted with classic Pandas and Defenders that also feel perfectly in sync). The old “high-life” world feeling still detained within the town’s walls is actually so present you’d almost expect to stumble upon Sir David Niven chasing down Claudia Cardinale on a ski run at every moment (do ring me if you do so, though), just as in the Pink Panther, shot on the city’s premises and most notably in Hotel Cristallo. The classic movie set the standard not only for 1960s comedy but also for the best ski style the Alps around (its costumes are crafted by Yves Saint Laurent and Irene Galitzin). Cortina is also and not the least a destination for real sports seekers (it hosted the Olympics in 1956 and is gearing itself up for the 2026 Milano-Cortina ones) as well as art and literature aficionados. Do check out the various buildings imagined by architect Edoardo Gellner, including the Corte Delle Dolomiti complex — completed with a wood and concrete church imagined alongside Carlo Scarpa — a short and scenic 15 minutes drive away.

St. Moritz

The Engadine resort town seemingly doesn’t need prior introduction anymore. Standing still as the prime destination for high-life in the Swiss Alps and boasting many histories and legends, it also manages to host a series of year-round, impressively qualitative cultural and sports events, such as the habitual Snow Polo late January, the relatively new but extremely popular I.C.E. (International Concours of Elegance) in February and the traditional and well-orchestrated B.C.C.M. every July on the grounds of grand hotel Suvretta Haus.

The Concours celebrates its30th edition this year in ‘Safari’ style (expect a lovely lot of Land Rovers Defenders and Yves Saint Laurent’s sahariennes). The whole valley is worth taking a tour (and that’s an obvious understatement) as well as the close-by Bernina and Julier road passes, drivable all year round and therefore providing unlimited enjoyment. The precious, preserved villages of Sils Maria and Silvaplana both possess an undeniable calming quality and might just have the best views of the valley, with cultural milestones worth travelling for (the Nietzsche Haus, the Waldhaus Hotel, the Sils Museum).

Andermatt

Little of the regular alpine extravaganza found in the likes of Verbier or St. Moritz appear to be present at first sight in the small and picturesque village of Andermatt. Located at the crossroad of some of the most spectacular road passes in the country — the surreal Furkapass, whimsical Grimselpass and legendary Gotthardpass are all at reach — it also boasts regal cinematographic legacy, being the location for Goldfinger’s legendary car chase. We knew James Bond loved the Alps, now we know why. The more striking then is the reveal, against these dark mountains of a particular raw, mineral beauty, of the Chedi Andermatt, a sprawling but perfectly integrated hotel structure that has been acting for 10 years now as probably the best destination for real alpine luxury. In precedent-setting architecture and comfort imagined by designer Jean-Michel Gathy, the hotel caters both guests and year-round residents with a ski room ready for après-ski with fitted turntables, Michelin starred Japanese restaurants both indoors and slope-side, a double-storey glass cheese cave at breakfast (yes, you heard right) and a cigar collection worthy of a high-class museum, accompanied by its varied and well-curated specialist library. Add to this a prime and elegant spa and a variety of lounges to snuggle into and you have the best version of a ski chalet there might be this side of the globe. Their non-fussy but irreproachable approach to luxury makes it all the more enticing, offering their best selection of either coffee, champagne or even Japanese whiskey for habitués or hikers alike. A real treat that resets all other hotels standards more than a notch.

Cécile Christmann (@rivieiraa) is a Paris-based architect, interior designer and curator for luxury publishing house Assouline, as well as a writer and artistic director. A keen traveller, she regularly writes on hotels, buildings and cities, focusing on both architecture, characters and history.